In Russia a controversy is raging which rather encapsulates some of the contradictions and opposing trends which are currently at work in that enormous, diverse country. The American company Coca Cola has produced its own variety of the fermented rye bread drink, kvas. This brew, mildly alcoholic but consumed as a soft drink, is an archetypal and much loved Russian beverage, which has acquired a role in the resurgence of pride in Russian identity that has accompanied the country’s economic and international resurgence under Vladimir Putin. Kvas has become regarded as the patriotic alternative to imported Cola brands; tastier, authentically Russian and indeed healthier. There is therefore a certain frisson in inevitable attempts by Coca Cola and Pepsi to muscle in on the market place by introducing their own versions of the drink, albeit purportedly with traditional Russian ingredients. The comparison may be trite, but I did discern in the kvas debate, something redolent of wider i...